Returning Home

We are just a couple of days from the end of a 10+ week vacation during which we visited England, Israel and Russia.

We left home on April 21 and then spent 10 days in Israel, visiting Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and making side trips from each city. It was a remarkable experience and we visited most of the Biblical sites that had been on our agenda. It is difficult to single out one, but certainly the day spent in and around Galilee and the River Jordan was a highlight as well as just about everything we saw in Jerusalem.

The Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane

The Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane

From Israel we went to England and had six weeks in our nephew’s flat in Ilkley. Actually, Molly was gone for about ten days for her annual sibling reunion in Warwickshire. We also had a two day visit by two friends from Mason, together with their daughter, all three of whom were on a two week European vacation prompted in part by the fact that Lauren (the daughter) is in the middle of a period of university studies in Spain.

Yorkshire countryside

Yorkshire countryside

In early June we joined two friends from England on a twelve day river cruise in Russia, starting in Moscow and ending just a few days ago in St Petersburg. This was a very interesting trip and we were all very impressed with the part of Russia that we saw – from the Kremlin in Moscow to the beautiful buildings of St Petersburg and the heavily forested countryside between the two.

St Petersburg, Russia (The Church on the Spilled Blood)

St Petersburg, Russia (The Church on the Spilled Blood)

We came back to England from Russia but for just less than a week and we are now getting ready to return to the US on Tuesday. The Tour de France cycle race starts in England this year and one the first towns on its route is Ilkley so the town – and indeed the entire area – is decorated in preparation. If the weather cooperates, it should provide wonderful publicity for the County of Yorkshire and its beautiful countryside so we will be watching TV for great camera shots of our “home away from home”.

Ready for the Big Race

Ready for the Big Race

And we will be home, in Mason, OH by late Tuesday after a very different and extended vacation period. For our family and friends that we missed in England this time: apologies, but we will be back!

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Russia, June 2014. St Petersburg

This is the final post (again, a little late) on our twelve day trip to Russia and covers the final three days in St Petersburg before we returned to England yesterday (June 24). Enjoy!

On Saturday (June 21) we started our time in St Petersburg with a visit to the Hermitage. It is impossible to describe this palace/museum/art gallery with its 600 rooms, each it seems more beautiful and ornate than the last. We had visited the Hermitage on our last visit here in 2008 and so we were prepared not only for its beauty and its contents, but also its crowds. Our group of 40 people from the ship had one guide who somehow managed to herd us through several dozen rooms and describe in some detail perhaps 50 works of art.

The palace had been built by Catherine the Great and she and subsequent rulers must have spent a huge amount of time (not to mention money) filling the rooms with the works of masters from across Europe.

As with our last visit, the three hours spent in the Hermitage barely scratched the surface and was conducted at almost breakneck speed. Certainly it was by no means sufficient time to get more than just an overall impression of the grandeur of the place and a sampling of its contents and one could imagine spending days or weeks there and still missing a lot. On the other hand, for tired legs and brains that can soon get “overloaded”, this was an excellent tour. I had thought that Photography would not be allowed so have no pictures; however, all would have contained dozens of heads as well as the piece of art. I bought the book!

The bus trip to and from the palace gave us an introduction to the city and its amazing architecture which will be amplified and seen close-up during the next two days of tours. For today, however, we had a four hour break back on the ship before our evening trip to the ballet. We went to see a performance of “The Nutcracker” at the Rimsky-Korsakov Theater and it was excellent. We have no idea where the troupe fits in the hierarchy of Russian ballet companies but to us they seemed very professional and (to my eyes) flawless in their performance.

Sunday was a beautiful sunny day as we drove to the summer palace of Tsarina Elizabeth in the town of Pushkin (named after Russia’s most famous poet). The palace was designed in 1752 and named in honor of Elizabeth’s mother Catherine who originally owned the estate.

The palace is not as big (nor as crowded) as the Hermitage but it still contains numerous works of art and, especially, very ornate rooms within its beautiful walls, which have a predominantly pastel blue and white exterior.

Catherine Palace main facade

Catherine Palace main facade

Catherine Palace "Front Door"

Catherine Palace “Front Door”

Inside the palace our guide took us through all the rooms currently open to the public – from ballroom, to entertaining rooms, dining rooms and some much smaller containing works of art – often of the czars of the Romanov dynasty. The overwhelming sense is of gold, with virtually all of the rooms being lavishly decorated with gold leaf. Often mirrors or windows added a lot of light to these rooms so the effect was almost dazzling at times.

Gold was very popular........

Gold was very popular……..

The ceiling of the entrance hall and staircase

The ceiling of the entrance hall and staircase

Delft was also quite common (the early czars loved Holland) particularly in what were enormous stoves (for heating) in corners of many rooms. Some dining tables were set out with original or copies of fine china and silverware and gave the impression that a state occasion was about to begin! The majority of the floors were parquet (we had to wear booties) and, in the enormous ballroom, perfectly matched the golden figures and shapes of the ceiling. It really is a palace of beauty and one can only imagine the enormous cost to build and decorate.

Delft "Boiler"

Delft “Boiler”

Time for lunch in the intimate dining room

Time for lunch in the intimate dining room

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In actual fact, there are recent figures that give an idea of the value of the palace since much of it was destroyed or desecrated by Nazi forces as they retreated from St

in World War II. There were several pictures taken just after the war showing open rooms devoid of decoration, walls fallen and rubble almost everywhere. One room (the famous Amber Room, almost completely covered in all shades of amber) had its contents taken by the retreating army and have not been found to this day. However, this and many of the other rooms have been reconstructed exactly as they were when built and, hopefully, will provide a continuing statement of Russia’s monarchy as well as a tourist mecca for years to come.

The gardens of the palace estate are also quite beautiful and typical of those found in many other great European cities. Although started as a copy of Versailles it is not as ornate but, with its two lakes and beautiful “out-buildings”, provides a tranquil sanctuary now as it must have for the rulers.

In the grounds

In the grounds

One of the lakes in Catherine Palace grounds

One of the lakes in Catherine Palace grounds

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our afternoon tour was of the most famous sites in the center of St Petersburg. Once again, we find it difficult to convey the stunning architecture of every style found in this wonderful city. For those who have visited Vienna, Paris, Budapest or Rome, you have seen somewhat similar examples – but, to my mind, St Petersburg outshines them all. Perhaps the history is not as extensive and the cathedrals are unfamiliar to Western eyes but I doubt there are any cities with so many iconic buildings.

We first visited the St Peter and Paul Cathedral and Fortress, which as its name implies is a huge complex, the centerpiece of which is the cathedral in which all the Czars of the Romanov Dynasty are entombed.

St Peter and Paul Cathedral; Burial Place of the Czars

St Peter and Paul Cathedral; Burial Place of the Czars

 

Inside St Peter and Paul

Inside St Peter and Paul

 

This includes one tomb containing what they believe are the remains of Nicholas and Alexandra and their family who were slaughtered in the 1917-1918 Revolution which saw the beginning of the Soviet Communist rule. As with all Orthodox churches, this one is ornately decorated but it is surprisingly “Western” (Roman Catholic?) in its interior. There is no iconostasis and there are a number of pillars supporting the structure and there is even a pulpit – although our guide suggested that it had never been used as such.

The next highlight was the visit to the Church on the Spilled Blood (also known as the Resurrection of Our Savior), perhaps the most recognizable of St Petersburg buildings.

St Petersburg "Venice of the North"

St Petersburg “Venice of the North”

The Church on the Spilled Blood

The Church on the Spilled Blood

It has numerous onion domes at differing heights and which are very brightly painted, giving the whole a surreal and wonderfully ornate appearance. It was built on the spot where Czar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. We didn’t have sufficient time to go inside the church but it was sufficient to gaze at its exterior – along with many tourists and local families out on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, alongside one of the many canals of the city.

The final stop (actually we had several “photo opportunity” quick stops en route) was for an hour outside the enormous Cathedral of St Isaac.

St Isaac Cathedral

St Isaac Cathedral

Peter the Great and Molly the Wonderful

Peter the Great and Molly the Wonderful

This is one of the world’s largest cathedrals, completed in 1858 after forty years of construction and decoration. In the Soviet era it was converted to a museum of Atheism and is still a museum (rather than a functioning church) today – although now containing 19th century works of art. Again we did not enter the church but it is possible to climb to its dome (much like St Paul’s in London) and walk around its exterior on two levels.

We walked past the cathedral to the massive bronze statue of Peter the Great which overlooks the river and is bounded by another beautiful park. St Petersburg is very green and its streets are generally very wide boulevards (“prospects”) and with the density of iconic structures seen at every turn, it is certainly the jewel in Russia’s crown. It had been the capital through the Romanov period and is still the cultural and financial center of the country leaving, it would appear, the politics to Moscow.

In the afternoon of our final full day in Russia (Monday) we took a one hour boat trip on the rivers and canals of central St Petersburg. The weather was not so good (drizzle and cool) but the trip gave another perspective on this magnificent city. Most of the buildings we had already seen on other excursions but naturally we got a different perspective and view from the water. In addition, passing under some of the very low bridges (reminiscent of Venice) added another level of excitement!

Thus our twelve day cruise through northern Russia and extended visits to Moscow and St Petersburg came to an end and I believe that everyone – and certainly our party of four – had enjoyed it thoroughly and had experienced another part of the world together with its peoples, its history and its culture. It was – certainly for Molly and me – an eye-opening experience and changes our image of this country forever.

 

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/russia-june-2014-st-petersburg/

Russia, June 2014. The Waterways of the Czars.

This is the second post from our visit to Russia. This covers the cruising portion of the trip between Moscow and St Petersburg, taking five days. Once again, I am afraid that the length is a little overwhelming but we have seen such a lot and it is difficult (for me) to summarize it adequately and still convey the enjoyment of the sights, history and culture that we have experienced throughout the journey. Perhaps the pictures will help! Bob

On Sunday afternoon (June 15) we started the cruise proper and left Moscow, first on the Moscow Canal and then on the Volga River – with our ultimate destination of St Petersburg on Saturday. In the meantime, however, we were to experience some beautiful views from the waterways, learn more about Russian history and culture, and enjoy several shore excursions as we traveled north.

Shortly after lunch on Monday, we docked at the small town of Uglich for a three hour stay.

Entrance to Uglich Church

Entrance to Uglich Church

The town has a population of only 50,000 but has played an important part in Russian history, being the town in which the young next-in-line for the throne, Dmitry, was allegedly executed by his uncle. This was in the middle of the Romanov period and resulted in a break in the direct lineage and the influx of Prussian royals as the future Czars.

Consequently, while in Uglich, we visited the Church of the Spilled Blood, built on the site where Dmitry was killed and saw frescoes depicting the event and its consequences. We also visited two additional cathedrals – one of the Assumption and the other of the Epiphany. In the latter we listened to a six man a capella group with an absolutely marvelous deep bass. They sang one sacred song and then the Volga Boatmen: not enough, so I bought a CD.

The iconostasis in Uglich Cathedral

The iconostasis in Uglich Cathedral

Cathedral in Uglich

Cathedral in Uglich

Russian afternoon snack - with vodka!

Russian afternoon snack – with vodka!

Also in Uglich we visited a private home where we (about 14 of us in the group) we entertained by the lady of the house who provided us with tea, vodka (homemade), pickles, peppers, sweets and cake and let us look through the one storey home. Viking River Cruises has a habit of showing the “local life” in this manner (although in China and Cambodia it was by visiting schools) and it is not usually our favorite part of the tour. However, in this case it was a very enjoyable experience and a nice way to see the very hospitable and friendly locals. Perhaps the vodka helped!

On Tuesday we had an early departure for a tour of the city of Yaroslavl. The city was founded in 1010 – making it one of the oldest in Russia – and had a brief period as the country’s capital. However, its major claim to fame seems to be as the city that brought Christianity to Russia after Vladimir the Great embraced the Orthodox Church based on his emissaries’ visit to Constantinople. As late as the early 20th Century the city boasted over 50 churches and 15 monasteries at a time when the population was much smaller than today’s 650,000. The Stalin era brought the destruction of many of them and only in the past 25 years have some been converted back to churches from the non-religious use that they were given in the 1930s.

The first Cathedral we visited was that of the Transfiguration. This church was completely destroyed in Stalin’s time and has just been re-built, the construction completed for the city’s millennium in 2010. As with all the Orthodox churches we have seen, the iconostasis (the “wall” between the worship space and the altar) is covered with beautiful icons and the other walls and ceiling with frescoes.

Inside the Governor's Mansion, Yaroslavl

Inside the Governor’s Mansion, Yaroslavl

Yaroslavl Cathedral and War Memorial

Yaroslavl Cathedral and War Memorial

We also visited the Cathedral dedicated to Elijah the Prophet which had survived since the 18th Century and its “frescoes” we were told were actually egg tempera which are much more durable and retain their vibrant colors for a longer period. Indeed, many of the blues, reds and greens were in what would appear to be almost new condition.

Following a brief visit to a market we went to a viewpoint overlooking the Volga and one of its tributaries that formed a natural defense for the city. In fact, this river barrier formed two thirds of the exterior of the city’s kremlin and the churches we had visited were inside the old fortress. We were reminded that the kremlin was the central fortress of Russian cities and also included the political, cultural and religious buildings and functions, just as the more famous one we had visited in Moscow.

Our final stop was at the Governor’s Mansion. Yaroslavl is the capitol of its region and this building and its grounds had been the leaders’ residence and office in earlier years. It is now referred to as a Gallery (it has numerous paintings of Russian royalty, for example) but is basically a museum to past glories. It is a beautiful building inside and out and we were given an excellent tour by the “governor’s daughters” dressed in period costume (late 19th Century). We were also given a short dancing demonstration with a three piece instrumental accompaniment – and the audience we approached by the “professionals” to join them in a dance. It may be telling that I was the only one of the four of us not asked to join in, with Keith, Zena and Molly each performing with their beautiful or handsome partners. However, I consoled myself by recognizing that someone had to take the photographs!

Although it is a large city, the part we visited was quite compact (we walked everywhere) and in most European cities would be classed as the Old Town. In fact, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the only 20th century building in the area was the ugly concrete structure built as the Communist Party Headquarters. Certainly the city we saw (with that one exception) was very picturesque and with the weather cooperating (cloudy but bright) it was pleasant to end our visit with a coffee sitting in one of the outdoor cafes.

View from the River leaving Yaroslavl

View from the River leaving Yaroslavl

After once again sailing overnight, on Wednesday we docked at the town of Kuzino. The first stop was on the dock where a Viking long house replica was used to give us a taste of the Scandinavian invasions of this part of the world in the 12th Century. The brief show was interesting and quite amusing and added yet another dimension to this country and its history.

We were then driven about 15 miles to visit the town of Kirillov-Belozersky where we visited  a school. School was no longer in session but we were given a tour by a student and shown the classrooms and given a description of primary and secondary education in this northern part of the country. It was interesting to see a physical facility not that different to the one Keith and I had attended sixty years ago and to get an idea of the curriculum – both now and as it had existed during the Soviet era. Our local guide (not the student who escorted us in the school) had been a teacher (before retiring at the customary age of forty for many professionals!) gave the impression that she perhaps preferred the discipline and range of study “in her day” more than the “easier” course work of today. I suppose that was a reaction that many of us get as we age: “You have it easy; not like in my day”.

We then went to the monastery dedicated to Saint Cyril (“Kirillo”). As our handout said, it looked more like a fortress than a monastery with high, imposing walls much like the Moscow Kremlin – and almost as big. Within the walls were several churches as well as the old monastery of The Assumption (which had been a place of pilgrimage for the Czars) and the much smaller one dedicated to St John where a handful of monks still reside.

Kirilov Monastery and Cathedral

Kirillov-Belozersky Monastery and Cathedral

Fortress/Monastery, Kirilov

Fortress/Monastery, Kirillov-Baelozersky

There is a great deal of archeological work and reconstruction taking place on the huge site but the major building that we visited was basically a museum containing frescoes, icons, paintings and church pieces which had adorned the monastery (and others) over the 600 years of its existence. Photography was not allowed but we were able to view some fantastic pieces of art put together both here and in the capitals of St Petersburg and Moscow. Once again, the primary pieces were icons, although there were a number of frescoes remaining and many fabric works of art on various materials and often including much gold, silver and precious stones.

This, together with other cathedrals we have seen on this trip, provided another level of detail on the Orthodox Church to which we had been introduced in Israel and which has been probably the major theme of the past six days in Russia. It is amazing that, in a country that was officially atheist for much of the past century and during which many religious sites were destroyed or put to other use, so much emphasis is on the church today. For those faithful to the Christian tradition, Russia must provide great hope for the future; for others those not so inclined it still provides a tremendous collection of beautiful architecture and art comparable to that of the great Western European countries.

Back on board ship we soon set sail, later enjoyed another good dinner on board (tonight’s was a Russian theme) followed by a vodka tasting session at 9:30. We were given six different vodkas to taste, together with appropriate snacks, and for each we had a toast and a different way of holding the glass – or, in one case, glasses! We were taught how to drink from two cascading glasses at once; some more successfully than others, the less skillful getting another shirt for the laundry.

Thursday was essentially a lazy day on ship, although there were plenty of activities to attend if one felt so inclined. I attended another good lecture on the Putin years to round out our History of Russia series.

At 3pm we docked at a small island, Kizhi. There has been a settlement here for over 500 years, principally populated by peoples from Finland originally. In fact the area is called Karelia, presumably named for (or perhaps with) the area of the same name in Finland. Most of the villages had disappeared by the 1950s but more recently the island has been re-populated with buildings from various parts of the province to preserve them in what is in fact an open-air museum.

Kizhi Cathedral with 22 Domes - everything made in wood

Kizhi Cathedral with 22 Domes – everything made in wood

The wooden buildings of Kizhi

The wooden buildings of Kizhi

The unique feature of the buildings, including the magnificent 22 domed Cathedral of the Assumption, is that they are built of wood. Even the onion domes are made up of dozens (probably hundreds in some cases) of shingles, each cut and shaped from aspen trees. In addition to the church and its belfry, there are perhaps twenty additional structures that made up villages of this type – two storey homes with housing for a large family and its animals, a windmill and various craft shops. Our guide was very good and made the place come alive with her descriptions not only of the dwellings but of the life that the inhabitants followed in this remote area. Since we were now at a latitude of 60 degrees, we could believe her descriptions of the very hard winters and see the benefit of the entire family bedding down in one room for about three months every year.

Iconostasis in Kizhi

Iconostasis in Kizhi

Typical ornate home in Kizhi; living quarters on upper floor

Typical ornate home in Kizhi; living quarters on upper floor

 

Our only shore visit today (Friday) was at the town of Mandrogy. This was in many respects similar to Kizhi in that it is fundamentally a living museum. The town was destroyed in World War II but an enterprising Russian built a reproduction in the late nineties simply as a tourist attraction. Again, most of the buildings are wooden and many are very brightly painted and decorated with impressive carvings. We walked around the entire small area in about 90 minutes and made the obligatory stops at craft shops where the typically Russian stacking dolls are carved and painted and where other very beautiful – but expensive – wooden and fabric souvenirs were available. Keith and Zena went to a Russian Banya where they experienced the sauna and (at least for Keith) a cool dip in a lake. Both thoroughly enjoyed their experience.

Wooden home in Mandrogy - with local peasant!

Wooden home in Mandrogy – with local peasant!

One of many beautiful views from our ship as we sailed the Waterways of the Czars

One of many beautiful views from our ship as we sailed the Waterways of the Czars

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Small Mandrogy Home

 

Colorful Mandrogy Hotel

Colorful Mandrogy Hotel

This completed our shore excursions from the rivers and lakes and tonight, as we cross the biggest lake in Europe we will be approaching our final stop of the tour, St Petersburg, where a full three days of sightseeing are planned.

 

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/russia-june-2014-the-waterways-of-the-czars/

Russia, June 2014. Moscow.

As a result of the intermittent WiFi availability on our current trip, this (and future blogs) will suffer a few days delay in publication! We apologize for this – and for the minimal editing (therefore extensive prose) of the posts. Nevertheless, we hope you enjoy. The tour started on Thursday June 12.

 

We are currently(June 15)  in Moscow on the first leg of a twelve day visit to Russia with two English friends of ours, Keith and Zena. Keith was a high school friend of mine but we lost touch for almost fifty years, only “finding” each other again about eight years ago. Since that time all four of us have become good friends and we see them every time we visit England and spent a three week vacation together in the Western United States in 2011. We had arranged late last year to take this Russian river cruise together, so here we are on the Viking Rurik about to sail for St Petersburg.

 

On our first day (Friday) we booked our afternoon tours of the city of Moscow: Molly and I choosing the bus tour and Keith and Zena opting for the walking tour.

Our bus took us on a quite extensive tour of the center of Moscow from which we saw the Kremlin, the Bolshoi Ballet Theatre and many more public and private buildings – the most spectacular of which were the dozens of onion domed churches. Obviously we had seen pictures and TV programs about these magnificent buildings but the “real life” versions are so much more impressive. I think that the most distinctive difference between the images we had had and the sites we saw today were twofold: first the size and secondly the number. We must, in just the few hours we were downtown, have seen dozens of absolutely marvelous churches (usually with five domes representing Christ and the Four Apostles) and we were told that the country has 50,000 such buildings.

The colors are the same as we had seen on photographs but so much more vivid and spectacular as we got close and were able to look at them in a little more detail.

The Moscow River

The Moscow River

While still on the bus we stopped at an overlook where we had a great panoramic view of the city – churches, the Kremlin, the KGB Building, civic and government buildings and ultra-modern skyscrapers; and so much more. Crisscrossing the entire city was the Moscow River which essentially loops the downtown area and over which span numerous wide bridges span, each providing another perspective.

After this two hour plus tour, we got off the bus and were ushered into the Metro system to travel for about 15 minutes and four stations in distance. The Moscow Metro is the largest in the world and, in addition to being a major mode of transport (as many as 9 million passengers per day) it is something of a work of art in itself. Each station is built in a different style and each has its own character, architecture and art work.

The world famous Bolshoi Theater

The world famous Bolshoi Theater

We climbed up from the underground (as much as 100 feet below street level) and were close to the Bolshoi Theatre and only five minutes’ walk from Red Square and the Kremlin. We were led by our guide to the center of Red Square and then into the three storey exclusive department store, GUM, containing many store brands, ranging from Gucci, to De Beers and including every name that might be found in Paris, London or New York – and probably many more besides.

Red Square with (from left to right(, GUM department store, St Basil's Basilica, the Kremlin Walls and Lenin's Tomb

Red Square with (from left to right) GUM department store, St Basil’s Basilica, the Kremlin Walls and Lenin’s Tomb

Molly and I chose to spend most of our time walking around Red Square (rather than GUM) where we saw the magnificent St Basil Basilica, one side (about a quarter mile in length) of the Kremlin wall, Lenin’s Tomb mausoleum, a magnificent History Museum and several other onion-domed churches – as well as the outside of GUM, a beautiful stone edifice that could grace any European city as a civic or government building.

St Basil's Cathedral, Red Square

St Basil’s Cathedral, Red Square

The Kremlin is much more than the austere walls that one normally sees; much more on that later. Red Square itself – a cobble stone plaza – is also enormous and much more appealing than the iconic setting for Red Army parades and Soviet display of strength. It is much like many similar open areas in other European cities (Vienna sprang to my mind) but on a much larger scale.

After walking all around the Square we left and walked a short distance to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the eternal flame outside the Kremlin walls

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the eternal flame outside the Kremlin walls

This is guarded by two army officers (presumably 24/7) and fronted by an eternal flame. We arrived in time to witness the changing of the guard and saw the two new arrivals replace those that had been on duty for an hour – the march  in and out being in the high-stepping form that we associate with Russian (and other eastern European) armies.

We were then taken to a theater where we were to see a “local musical evening”. Molly and I were somewhat apprehensive as we have experienced several of these on previous tours and, while of some interest, have generally been of rather amateurish caliber. Not tonight, however. We were treated to almost 1 ½ hours of absolutely first class musical entertainment by the Moscow Folk Orchestra.

The ensemble were young (I thought perhaps students at a musical academy) but were of the highest quality and amassed an amazing collection of authentic Russian instruments. We were given a number of solo performances, which were excellent; there were several duets (like “dueling balalaikas!) and an amazing “competition” for supremacy between two xylophone players. In addition there was a comic musician who played (amongst other things) a saw and wooden spoons, and a beautiful soprano who sang two very graphic and enthusiastic love songs. It was a truly magnificent, beautiful, interesting, unusual – and amusing – end to our day.

 

Saturday was to be a day of sightseeing on our own and the bus was available simply to ferry us back and forth. In fact, the four of us decided ahead of time that we would return to the ship via the Metro so that we could leave town at our convenience.

We first went to the magnificent Cathedral Church of Our Savior, not too far from the Kremlin.

The Cathedral of Christ the Savior; built in four years as a faithful reproduction of its predecessor destroyed by Stalin

The Cathedral of Christ the Savior; built in four years as a faithful reproduction of its predecessor destroyed by Stalin

This church was built (in only four years) at the end of the 20th Century on the same site that had housed a 19th Century cathedral before Stalin ordered it demolished in the thirties. It was actually blown up and, as the plans also were lost, the “restoration” was a complete re-build based on photographs and, presumably, memories. The site had been designated by Stalin for an enormous “Palace of the Soviets” but funding issues stalled the construction and a swimming pool was built there instead!

When the USSR fell and the Russian Federation was formed, the then mayor of Moscow was instrumental in the decision to build a cathedral here again. Apparently the designers and builders did as faithful a reproduction as possible, even to the extent of persuading the Italian quarry to be re-opened to obtain identical red marble for some of the inside walls. The Cathedral is now the tallest Orthodox Church in the world and dominates the skyline, despite the whole city it seems being a sea of onion domed churches, and is capable of accommodating as many as 10,000 people. The central dome above the main sanctuary is 103 meters tall and is decorated with what must be an enormous Christ figure, surrounded by many Biblical paintings. The rest of the church has dozens of wall paintings, many icons and a beautiful marble floor. It is very open, very light and very inspiring.

The high altar is not seen from the sanctuary and in its place is a very ornate building within the church itself. There is what appears to be a communion rail in front of this baptistery-like structure and that is really the only clue to the existence of an altar. Nevertheless, the cathedral is an amazingly beautiful building and, in my opinion, loses nothing as a result of it being a “copy” of the original.

We then walked to Red Square where we had wanted to visit Lenin’s tomb but as we reached the end of the line, security personnel were indicating that only those actually in line would be able to get in before the appointed closing time. So, we missed it – just as we had on our visit to Temple Mount in Jerusalem a few weeks earlier! As Molly said – we shall just have to come back again. And, indeed, a return visit to this city would be a worthwhile objective as it clearly has a lot more than we have been able to cover in this visit.

We returned to the ship via the Metro, stopping at one very ornate station before completing our journey. After dinner on the ship we left by taxi for downtown once again to start our “Moscow by Night” tour from the water. The Moscow River essentially does two U-turns in the heart of the city; hence we saw most of the monuments, churches and other historical, cultural and civic sites that we had already seen in our two bus tours. However, the views from the water obviously gave another perspective and, at least towards the end of the ride, the approach of darkness and the illumination of the buildings provided yet another dimension.

On Sunday (our final day in Moscow) we went on a tour of the Kremlin. We started by walking through one of the many gates of the Kremlin on the side opposite Red Square.

One of several churches inside the Kremlin

One of several churches inside the Kremlin

 

Part of the center of Moscow from inside the Kremlin walls

Part of the center of Moscow from inside the Kremlin walls

 

Once inside the Kremlin walls (which are two kilometers in circumference in a roughly triangular shape) we saw just how different it was from the pictures we had received over the years whenever this institution was mentioned. First, its size is perhaps an order of magnitude bigger than the image I had had and, secondly, inside the walls is a small but very impressive city. We saw at least five cathedrals of various sizes (some designated for Royal Family use only when built, others in honor of various saints), many colorful and beautiful civic and reception buildings and some beautiful gardens and parks. Each was approached via broad streets (now essentially devoid of traffic) and, as a result of the location on one of Moscow’s higher hills, with great views over the rest of the city and the Moscow River on which we had sailed last night.

The first cathedral we entered was the Cathedral of the Assumption and, of course, was built in the Russian Orthodox style with few pillars but with every inch of wall space decorated with either frescoes or mosaic, painted or metallic relief icons. Apparently all Russian Orthodox churches are very similar in design but the icons and frescoes added the individuality.

The second cathedral we visited was dedicated to St Michael and also contained the tombs of most of the Czars of the past six centuries. The guide gave us an interesting perspective on the pre-Revolution royal history as well as describing some of the changes that resulted during the Soviet years when religion was banned and many icons, and even buildings, were destroyed. Apparently, however, a goodly number of these decorations were saved by moving them to “safe houses”, although whether this was a sanctioned or covert operation was not clear. In any event, the post-Soviet era has seen a tremendous resurgence in religion and church attendance (even amongst the young) so perhaps these glorious edifices will be around for future generations of locals and tourists to enjoy.

Once again, we felt that no matter what your Faith (or level of its intensity), it is difficult not to be moved by the beauty of these buildings and the “story” on which they were built and decorated and how much we owe (in architecture, art, design and music) to those whose faith did indeed inspire such expressions of beauty – all of which have provided generations with such emotion and awe.

Our final half hour within the Kremlin walls was spent walking through the park and garden areas where beautiful flower beds, trees and grassy areas provided an oasis from the hustle if the city proper and a wonderful setting for the cathedrals and civic buildings.

The gardens of the Kremlin

The gardens of the Kremlin

 

So are leaving Moscow following an amazing three days during which our impressions of the city (and to some extent the entire country) had been totally transformed. We had arrived with an expectation of a dour, drab, perhaps dirty (probably matched by its inhabitants) and left with a picture of a vibrant, clean, stunningly beautiful city with a wide variety of European and Asian architecture and, for the most part, a population that mirrored that image. Yes, there are still the non-smiling toilet attendants and eye contact in busy public places is minimal but on every occasion when we had direct interface with the locals it was a pleasant, helpful and rewarding experience. We were yet again so grateful that we are in a position to experience other countries and cultures and see just how different – and so much alike – we all are.

 

 

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/russia-june-2014-moscow/

Three Americans in Yorkshire

To steal a line from Garrison Keillor: It’s been a slow two weeks here in Ilkley. Since I last posted, Molly has returned to Ilkley from her sibling reunion “Down South”, we have enjoyed meals out with family and friends, we have walked a little and cycled a little – and simply followed our normal routine in this lovely part of Yorkshire.

Happy to be in "Tykes County"

Happy to be in “Tykes County”

At 3:59 pm on Thursday, however, a train pulled into Ilkley railway station and three American visitors alighted. Not just any Americans but our friends Peter and Leslie (from Mason) and their daughter Lauren, who is currently studying in Spain. They were here after spending three days in London at the start of their European Grand Tour. They were to be our guests in Ilkley for two nights before their next stop – Paris.

Our first evening was spent “catching up” over tea in the flat and then enjoying a pub meal at the nearby Busfeild Arms (that IS how they spell it!) Steak and Ale Pie, Fish and Chips, a pint of bitter – what more could life hold?downloadFriday was forecast to be a beautiful day (and indeed it was), and Lauren had decided that she wanted to walk on Ilkley Moor before we started our day out in the Yorkshire Dales. So, a little after eight, she and Bob donned boots and set off up the hill opposite the apartment towards the Cow and Calf Rocks, a famous local landmark.

Lauren atop The Cow

Lauren atop The Cow

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Beautiful Ilkley Moor

After our return and a quick breakfast, we set out in the car, with the market town of Skipton our first destination. Here we strolled through the open market, saw the

Skipton Market

Skipton Market

narrow boats on the Leeds-Liverpool Canal and were entertained by a South American group

The narrow boats on the canal

The narrow boats on the canal

standing outside a local pub. Note the tribute to the forthcoming visit here of the Tour de France Cycle Race.

Outdoor entertainment

Outdoor entertainment

 

 

From Skipton we drove into the Dales proper and climbed a very steep hill for a good overview of the Wharfe Valley, before we ended our day at a tea room in the beautiful village of Grassington.

The Yorkshire Dales

The Yorkshire Dales

Grassington

Grassington

Bowls anyone?

Bowls anyone?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back in Ilkley we rested a while before going to dinner at one of our favorite restaurants in Ilkley and then it was home to bed in preparation for an early start on Saturday. We left Ilkley at 7:15 to drive our guests to the Leeds-Bradford airport where they boarded a plane for Heathrow and then on to Paris to continue their Tour – after a very pleasant, but all too short, stay in Yorkshire.

 

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/three-americans-in-yorkshire/

Le Tour et Le Moor

A couple of weeks ago I posted a description of a walk I had done on Ilkley Moor; a week ago, I talked about cycling on Le Tour de France route; this week it’s a little of both.

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Glorious Yorkshire countryside

On Wednesday I cycled just over 30 miles, virtually all of it on the route cyclists will take on Stage One of  the Tour de France, when it starts in Yorkshire in July. As with the whole of the route for Stages One and Two, the athletes will pass through some beautiful countryside – although I doubt they will take the time to stop and gaze at it, as I did. With this trip and my two previous cycling days out, I believe that I have covered over fifty miles of the tour route and provide a picture of my bike and  Tour poster as “proof”! Okay, so you’ll just have to take my word for it.

My bike on Le Tour Route

My bike on Le Tour Route

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Saturday, I chose to walk rather than cycle and once again headed to Ilkley Moor. I climbed slowly to the northern edge of the Moor with some beautiful views (on a not so beautiful day) over Wharfedale

View from The Moor

View from The Moor

and also saw what is believed to be a Bronze Age carving of a Swastika Stone. (The Swastika has only taken on an evil connotation in the past 80 years).

Swastika Stone

Swastika Stone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My path crossed some beautiful open moorland and a stretch of rhododendron trees with glorious colors and I was all set to accomplish a long-standing goal of walking from Ilkley to Skipton – a cross-country distance of twelve miles.

Rhododendron near my path

Rhododendron near my path

Then the weather intervened! I wouldn’t want the reader to think that a drop of rain would deter me from my goal, but this heavy downpour combined with a cool breeze caused me to look at alternatives.

After four miles, rather than continuing towards Skipton, I turned on an alternative route towards home – one that followed a bus route so I could quit whenever I needed to. However, a combination of missed buses, misreading timetables (who would have expected that from a former bus conductor?) and reaching a point where I was so wet that I felt it unsociable to take public transport, contributed to walking the entire way home. I covered 10 1/2 miles, so would have virtually made my original goal had I just kept going!

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Le Tour de Yorkshire!

The two days of Tour and Moor were captured on my final stretch where the Tour will pass twice, once on each of the first two days. Here the local community have really got into the spirit and have lined part of the route with bicycles mounted on the stone walls. Bikes obviously define Le Tour and stone walls are quintessential Yorkshire Dales; a perfect amalgamation.

 

 

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/le-tour-et-le-moor/

Le Tour

Saturday May 17

 

Friday and today have been absolutely gorgeous days here in Yorkshire so I finally got out on the bike to enjoy the scenery and the weather.

 

Ilkley is at Mile 23 on this year’s Tour de France cycle race and hence only about 45 minutes from Le Grand Depart. This marks the first time that Le Tour has ventured this far north in England and it is considered a great coup for the County of Yorkshire that the first two stages will be raced entirely within the County.

 

Road cycling has always been popular in England but must be at an all-time high at the moment following two consecutive Tour wins for Brits and with the additional excitement created by its start here in July. So, in my own way, I joined in the anticipation and took to the roads that, in part, will soon be traveled by the World’s best cyclists.

 

In two outings, covering a total of 62 miles, I perhaps traced 25 miles of their route, all of it being on relatively flat terrain (for them!) and with no “Category” Hills involved. There are several Category 3 and 4 climbs in the Yorkshire stages this year (which would almost certainly find me pushing the bike) and I can’t imagine the Category 1and 2 Cotes of the Alps.

 

My average speed was also somewhat less impressive than that of Le Tour cyclists, where daily averages of 30 mph are not unusual – and that over distances of well over 100 miles on some days. My total distance in two days at a pace of about 10 mph would mean that I would be “on the road” three times as long as the elite – if indeed I could cover those immense distances.

 

Still, I did travel a few miles of Le Tour, I saw the same beautiful scenery as they would if they could take the time to view it and, in all probability, I enjoyed better weather than they could encounter in their two days in Yorkshire.

 

For those interested in seeing a little of the route that Le Tour will take in its first two stage, click here. Admittedly some of the pictures were taken in winter and the terrain is therefore somewhat more foreboding than July will offer, but they do give a sense of the glorious scenery that will be passed through. They also clearly show the terrain that the cyclists will experience – and I envy the fact that they even want to try to climb those hills.

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/le-tour/

On Ilkley Moor without a hat

Sunday May 11, A walk on The Moor
There’s a popular song about the region (Ilkley Moor) that we see every morning from “our” apartment in England – rain and mist permitting! It may be amusing (or indecipherable) to some but is presented here as an introduction to a beautiful walk that I took on that moor today. The sun shone, the rain came in torrents, clouds predominated – but, within a mile of the apartment, I saw some of the most rugged and beautiful terrain that is Ilkla Mooar.  I hope that the pictures below allow you to enjoy the walk with me.
Wheear ‘ast tha bin sin’ ah saw thee, ah saw thee?**

On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
Wheear ‘ast tha bin sin’ ah saw thee, ah saw thee?
Wheear ‘ast tha bin sin’ ah saw thee?

On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
Tha’s been a cooartin’ Mary Jane
                          Choruse!
Tha’s bahn’ to catch thy deeath o’ cowd
                          Chorus
Then us’ll ha’ to bury thee
                          Chorus
Then t’worms’ll come an’ eyt thee up
                           Chorus
Then t’ducks’ll come an’ eyt up t’worms
                           Chorus
Then us’ll go an’ eyt up t’ducks
                           Chorus
Then us’ll all ha’ etten thee
                            Chorus
That’s wheear we get us ooan back
                            Chorus
 

** For those who want to sing along, the tune is “Cranbrook”, found in the Methodist Hymn Book and still used in the US for the hymn

” Grace! ‘Tis a Charming Sound”

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The Cow and Calf Rocks

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My path through the Bluebell Woods

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A somewhat more rugged path

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Ilkley Moor

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Beautiful waterfalls abound

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Bluebell Woods

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/on-ilkley-moor-without-a-hat/

Ilkley Carnival, May 5 2014

We are now in England, staying in our nephew’s flat in the small Yorkshire town of Ilkley.

Ilkley is a spa town and civil parish in West Yorkshire, in Northern England. Approximately 12 miles north of Bradford, the town lies mainly on the south bank of the River Wharfe in Wharfedale, one of the Yorkshire Dales. The parish has a population of around 16,000.

Ilkley’s spa town heritage and surrounding countryside make tourism an important local industry.

The town center is characterized by Victorian architecture, wide streets and floral displays. Ilkley Moor, to the south of the town, is the subject of a folk song, often described as the unofficial anthem of Yorkshire, “On Ilkla Moor Baht ‘at“. The song’s words are written in Yorkshire dialect, its title translated as “On Ilkley Moor without a hat.”

Yesterday (May 5) was a “Bank Holiday” (similar to the US Federal Holidays) and it was also Ilkley Carnival Day. The carnival itself (fair, rides, games, soccer tournament, noisy rock bands) was centered on the rugby grounds close to the river but the highlight for many was the parade through the middle of town. It had a pipe band, a brass band, an Air Force Cadet band, several cyclists (the Tour de France will pass through Ilkley in July) and hundreds of kids in costumes representing local activities and functions. It certainly wasn’t the Rose Parade but, on a beautiful warm and sunny day, it was a very pleasant way to spend an hour – and to raise money for local charities. Last year the Carnival attracted a crowd of 10,000; not bad for a town with less than twice that in total population, and a number that was expected to be exceeded yesterday.

Ilkley residents in their finery

Ilkley residents in their finery

Ilkley is a popular place to visit but it's not usually this crowded!

Ilkley is a popular place to visit but it’s not usually this crowded!

The future Royal Air Force

The future Royal Air Force

Pipe bands are always popular

Pipe bands are always popular

Brass Bands are very common in the North of England

Brass Bands are very common in the North of England

Presumably the Grand Marshall - with local dignitaries atop the bus

Presumably the Grand Marshall – with local dignitaries atop the bus

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/ilkley-carnival-may-5-2014/

Israel, Days 8 and 9: Galilee

On Wednesday we drove in a north-easterly direction which climbed east of the Carmel range and across the Armageddon Plain. Armageddon is mentioned in the Book of Revelation and has an apocalyptic connotation but the Hebrew words mean simply Strong Mountain. Being at a strategic point on many ancient trade routes, this area has seen many battles and a number of cities built and destroyed. We were told that a small hill is actually a site on which several cities had once existed, each built above its predecessor (presumably destroyed or abandoned). Whether or not this spot (mentioned frequently in the Old Testament as Meggido) will be the scene of a literal or symbolic apocalypse, it is today set in a beautiful region of Israel, not unlike northern Italy. On this stretch of road, which changes from mountain pass to deep valley rather frequently, we caught several views of Mount Tabor, a 2000 feet unusually rounded hill believed by many to be the site of the Transfiguration of Jesus.

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Mt Tabor – The Mount of the Transfiguration

Our first stop was in the city of Nazareth. The city is built on a steep hillside and houses the Church of the Annunciation and the Church of St Joseph, both built on the presumed sites of Mary’s and Joseph’s homes.

The Church of The Annunciation, Nazareth

The Church of The Annunciation, Nazareth

The Church (Basilica) of the Annunciation is a particularly attractive and tranquil sanctuary, especially compared with the frenetic chaos inside the Bethlehem nativity site. The cave-like home is on the entry level to the church and has a simple altar and a peaceful ambiance. The modern church above is relatively simple but quite beautiful and the walls are adorned with mosaics of the Virgin donated by Churches from around the globe.

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Mary’s Home

 

The Church of St Joseph is more modest but has excavations that reveal a site that could have been either the home or the carpentry – or, since the Crusaders had also built on this site – neither. Once again we were conscious of the fact that two thousand years have elapsed and that it was perhaps four hundred years before anyone tried to identify specific sites in the first centuries of Christianity. It is not surprising, therefore, that there could be confusion as to the exact locations of any Biblical site. We were nevertheless in Nazareth and the fact that we may or may not have seen the exact place of Joseph’s shop (or indeed of Mary’s birth) was of little consequence. This was not the interpretation of many of our fellow visitors who chose to accept these small caves or ancient stones as a truly Holy site and acted with due reverence. It must also be said that there was the other extreme in tourists who seemed more intent on being photographed (sometimes in glamor magazine fashion) in front of these sites than on any religious, historical or cultural experience.

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Joseph’s Home

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Nazareth we descended to catch our first glimpse of the Sea of Galilee and passed through the village of Cana, where water was turned into wine to prolong the festivities at the Wedding Feast. We also saw the city of Tiberias which had been built by one of the two sons of Herod the Great in honor of the Roman Emperor. Our guide suggested that it was probably not visited by Jesus, perhaps due to its Rome connections but more likely as it was a town of Judea where the new teachings would not have been well-received. It should be noted, however, that the Sea of Galilee is often referred to as the sea of Tiberias so there is room for further confusion and doubt.

We were now at the Sea of Galilee, which is 600 feet below sea level, below that of Death Valley in the USA but significantly higher than the Dead Sea to the south. Our first stop on the side of the lake (it is only 64 square miles) was at the Church of the Multiplication of Fish and Loaves where Five Thousand were fed. The church here is also very peaceful and simple and the only feature relating it to the event is a rock marking the site of the miracle, covered by a simple altar.

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The Rock under the altar marks the presumed site of The Multiplication

 

Not far from this Miracle Site is the Town of Capernaum, commonly referred to as the Town of Jesus. It was actually the home of St Peter but where Jesus spent much of his time. A church has been built here over the site of the home and in this case it has been done without destroying the archeological site below by simply placing the church on legs that straddle the old buildings. Very close by is a synagogue (actually two – one built directly on the foundations of the earlier one) where Jesus might have taught.

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The Synagogue where Jesus might have taught

 

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The Church of St Peter, Caperneum 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A beautiful statue of St Peter sits in a pleasant courtyard overlooking the Sea of Galilee and – in the absence of tourists wishing to be seated at its base for the inevitable photograph – provides a very attractive scene. With the odd fishing boat out on the Lake, one could easily imagine it as a scene that Jesus Himself would have recognized as much of his ministry was centered in this area.

 

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St Peter with the Sea of Galilee in the background

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then drove around the eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee, having crossed the Jordan River at its point of entry to the lake. We were then at the base of the Golan Heights, an area that has seen much conflict and one which was taken by Israel from Syria in the 1967 Six Day War. This, a large section of Jordan west of the Jordan River (The West Bank) and the Gaza Strip were each brought into the State of Israel as a result of that short but one-sided war against Syria, Jordan and Egypt. The drive along the eastern shore, in this annexed region of the Golan Heights, was very attractive and the hills to the east and north were again very reminiscent of northern Italy. At first glance it appeared that the hillsides we could see were unoccupied but closer inspection revealed dozens of villages and towns, filled with new Israeli citizens!

 

At the southern end of the Sea of Galilee we crossed the Jordan River to the west and made our final stop for the day at the Baptism Site. This is a well-organized and commercial site that  may or may not be the place where John  the Baptist baptized Jesus. But it does sit on the western bank of the Jordan River, is close to Jericho and has been designated as such for those who wish to accept. When I mentioned to our guide that we had visited “the Baptism Site” on the other side of the river and further south in Jordan, he simply responded that no-one claimed this as the one true place. The site we had visited several years ago was not actually “in” the river, although not more than a few yards from the slowly flowing water. An early church had been built at that site in Jordan; no such “statement of authenticity” had been made here.

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The Baptism Site

However, this site in Israel was actually on the River Jordan and areas had been prepared and surrounded by railings so that those inclined could be baptized in safety and, with the aid of a robe available from the gift shop for $25, in relative modesty. Although there were a number of obvious church groups here and some may well have had ordained ministers to perform the ceremony, it would appear that immersion baptisms here were mostly self-imposed or performed by friends or family. It is not for those like us, who simply chose to watch, to challenge either the authenticity or its impact on those who actually participated.

 

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Final look at the Sea of Galilee

Following this visit it was time to leave the hot valley (high temperature for the day was almost 100F) and take the two hour drive back to Tel Aviv. The climb out of the river valley was steep and had spectacular views of the River Jordan and the Sea of Galilee and much of the rest of the way was through the fertile plains and modest hills of Central Israel. We arrived back at the hotel almost exactly 12 hours after we had left, tired but so pleased that we had taken this tour “In the Footsteps of Jesus”.

This essentially ended our visit to the Holy Land as we used Thursday to simply relax and wind down after a hectic but moving eight days in this wonderful country.  On Friday it was on to more familiar territory in England.

 

Permanent link to this article: http://tykesabroad.com/israel-days-8-and-9-galilee/